Cienfuegos and Pasacaballo

Cienfuegos, sometimes called "the Pearl of the South," is a great place to start riding in Central Cuba. The city is on a huge bay, and this is the view behind one of the casas particulares in which we have stayed.

Cienfuegos is a port and a major industrial center, but the refineries and factories are well away from the commercial and residential areas you are likely to visit. Much of the city is relatively clean and prosperous, with many opportunities for outdoor recreation and a good choice of accommodation.

We enjoy a 39-kilometer loop ride from Cienfuegos to the nearby village of Pasacaballo, on the south coast. The ride features a botanical garden, good swimming beaches, a lighthouse, a Spanish fort, and two boat rides. There are some challenging hills, but grand views and a swim in the Caribbean make it all worthwhile. This is the lighthouse Faro Rancho Luna in Pasacaballo.

When you get to Pasacaballo, you may decide to stay for a night or two. There are three hotels on or near the beach, but our favorite place to stay is Finca Las Coloradas, overlooking the sea near the lighthouse. It is something midway between a casa particular and a small country inn. English-speaking owner José Pinero is both a kindly host and an excellent chef, and meals at Finca Las Coloradas may be the best we have had in Cuba.